The University of Western Australia

UWA Staff Profile

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Jeff Hansen

Dr Jeffrey Hansen

Earth Sciences, School of

Contact details
School of Earth Sciences
The University of Western Australia (M004)
35 Stirling Highway
+61 8 6488 3724
Room 1.24, Geology and Geography Building, Perth campus

UWA Oceans Institute

Contact details
UWA Oceans Institute
The University of Western Australia (M004)
35 Stirling Highway
+61 8 6488 3724
Room 1.24, Geology and Geography Building, Crawley campus
BSc PhD Calif., MSc S.Francisco State
2012 Postdoctoral Scholar, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
2011 Ph.D., Earth and Planetary Sciences, University of California, Santa Cruz
2007 M.Sc. Applied Geoscience, San Francisco State University
2002 B.S. Earth Sciences, University of California, Santa Cruz
Key research
The core of my research focuses on understanding physical processes in coastal environments and linking these to evolution of the coast over a range of time scales. Specific topics of interest include:
Wave driven surf zone currents on beaches and reefs
Inlet dynamics and interaction with adjacent coast.
Mechanisms of sediment transport in near coastal waters.
Beach and coastal response to storms and sea level rise.
Development of new in situ and remote sensing techniques to measure waves, water levels, and currents in the surf zone.
Development of topographic and nearshore bathymetric mapping systems.
Hansen, J.E., Janssen, T.T., Raubenheimer, B., Shi, F., Barnard, P.L., Jones, I.S. 2014, Observations of surfzone alongshore pressure gradients onshore of an ebb-tidal delta, Coastal Engineering, 91, pp. 251-260.

Buckley, M.L., Lowe, R.J., Hansen, J. 2014, Evaluation of nearshore wave models in steep reef environments, Topical Collection on the 7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics in Arcachon, France 24-28 June 2013', Ocean Dynamics, 64, 6, pp. 847-862.

Hansen, J.E., Elias, E., List, J.H., Erikson, L.H., Barnard, P.L. 2013, Tidally influenced alongshore circulation at an inlet-adjacent shoreline, Continental Shelf Research, 56, pp. 26-38.

Hansen, J.E., Elias, E., Barnard, P.L. 2013, Changes in surfzone morphodynamics driven by multi-decadal contraction of a large ebb-tidal delta, Marine Geology, 345, pp. 221-234.

Elias, E.P.L., Hansen, J.E. 2013, Understanding processes controlling sediment transports at the mouth of a highly energetic inlet system (San Francisco Bay, CA), Marine Geology, 345, pp. 207-220.

Barnard, P.L., Hansen, J.E., Erikson, L.H. 2012, Synthesis Study of an Erosion Hot Spot, Ocean Beach, California, Journal of Coastal Research, 28, 4, pp. 903-922.

Barnard, P.L., Allan, J., Hansen, J.E., Kaminsky, G.M., Ruggiero, P., Doria, A. 2011, The impact of the 2009-10 El NiƱo Modoki on U.S. West Coast beaches, Geophysical Research Letters, 38, L13604, pp. 1-7.

Yates, M.L., Guza, R.T., O'Reilly, W.C., Hansen, J.E., Barnard, P.L. 2011, Equilibrium shoreline response of a high wave energy beach, Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans, 116, C04014, pp. 1-13.

Hansen, J.E., Barnard, P.L. 2010, Sub-weekly to interannual variability of a high-energy shoreline, Coastal Engineering, 57, 11-12, pp. 959-972.

Barnard, P.L., Erikson, L.H., Hansen, J.E. 2009, Monitoring and Modeling Shoreline Response Due to Shoreface Nourishment on a High-Energy Coast, Journal of Coastal Research, 56, pp. 29-33.

Hansen, J.E., Barnard, P.L. 2009, The observed relationship between wave conditions and beach response, Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA, Journal of Coastal Research, 56, pp. 1771-1775.
Funding received
Ryan Lowe, Jeff Hansen, 2014, Nearshore dynamics of complex coastlines, UWA Research Collaboration Awards. ($15,000)

Jeff Hansen, Britt Raubenheimer, Steve Elgar, 2013, Beach and surfzone circulation and sediment dynamics, UWA Research Collaboration Awards. ($16,000)

Britt Raubenheimer, Jeff Hansen, Steve Elgar, 2013, Alongshore advective acceleration in the surf zone. United States National Science Foundation ($762,866).

Jeff Hansen, 2008, High-resolution shoreline mapping at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA. California Department of Boating and Waterways ($40,000)
American Geophysical Union
Honours and awards
2011 WHOI Postdoctoral Scholarship
2007 University of California Regents Fellowship
2006 Robert W. Maxwell Sholarship
Previous positions
Postdoctoral Scholar, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
Unit coordinator for
EART3337 Coastal Environments
ENVT4403 Coastal and Estuarine Processes
Current external positions
Adjunct Scientist, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
Useful links
New and noteworthy
Current projects
Alongshore non-linear advection:
NSF funded project to investigate the sources, prevalence, and impact of non-linear advection on alongshore surf zone forcing and flows using field observations collected in Duck, North Carolina and numerical modelling.

Coastal morphodynamics onshore of fringing reefs:
Many of the ubiquitous fringing and shore attached reefs in Western Australia feature a seaward protruding shorelines in their lee, similar to that often found onshore of a detached breakwater. We are currently investigating the mechanism that result in these accreted shorelines, which occur at scales ranging from tens of meters to more than a kilometer, as well as their temporal variability.
Research profile
Research profile and publications

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Last updated:
Tuesday, 3 November, 2015 2:39 PM